Tutorial: Cheap & easy plastic tatting shuttles

Here's a quick tutorial for how to make your own tatting shuttle, if you should ever need one in a hurry :) 

They are not quite like the shuttles you buy in a store, but they do work (I have tested them myself). You might need to get used to using a shuttle like this, because it is just a single "blade" and therefore has no bobbin to hold the thread out of the way while you tat. The thread also tends to get caught in the slits on the sides, but you'll get used to that, too, and soon you learn how to avoid it :) These shuttles can be made in card instead of plastic, but they are probably a lot less durable than the plastic ones.

What you'll need:

A plastic lid or box of some sort (thicker than paper, but thin and soft enough to cut with scissors)

Scrissors

A sharp knife

Hole-punch

Glue (optional - if you want to glue two pieces together to make a thicker shuttle)

The shuttle:

Start with cutting off edges and bends of the plastic you're using - it's easier to cut out the right shapes when you are working with a flat sheet of plastic:

Cut out one or two shapes (or more, depending on how many shuttles you want), in whatever shape or size you prefer :) It's no big deal if the parts are not identical if you intend to glue them together - just hold the pieces together and cut away the edges that stick out. 

When you are happy with your shapes, use the hole-punch to make two holes in the shuttle. Exact placement of the holes is not that important, just make sure you make them far enough from the edge to avoid cracking the plastic.

Next, cut slits in the shuttle from the edge to the holes - these are the grooves needed to wind the thread onto the shuttle, so make sure they are wide enough to fit the thread you plan to use :)

If you think the edges are rough, too pointy or uneven, use the knife to round off the corners and smooth out the edges to prevent the thread from catching and fraying when you use the shuttle.

Finally, glue two (or more) pieces together if you want a sturdier shuttle. I found that a single sheet of plastic was strong enough, but thinner sheets might need to be glued together. Wait for the glue to dry completely, cut/scrape away any edges left by the glue, and the shuttle is ready for use :)

Wind some of your favorite thread onto the shuttle and you're good to go :D

Tutorial: Asymmetrical granny square

For this you need to know how to make a basic granny square. If you don't, a tutorial can be found here.

Start by making a granny square two rounds big (don't break the yarn if you want to use the same color for the last round, just secure the loop with a stitch holder)

Start the next round in a corner space the same way you would start a normal round

Crochet around two sides of the square, finish off after the last block

To begin the next round, attach the yarn in top of the 'ch 3' of previous round, chain 5 (or 4, depending on which version of the tutorial you're following)

Continue the round as normal

When you get to the end, chain 1 (or 2), dc in the last dc from previous round

Repeat the last two rounds as many times as you want :)

When the square is big enough, pick up the loop you left on the stitch holder and crochet around the entire square as normal.

Finish off :)

Tutorial: Basic granny square

I warn you, the risk of getting addicted is great! Soon you'll be crocheting away and wondering what to do with all the squares you have made :p

Pattern:

Chain 5, sl st to join into ring

Chain 3, 2 dc in the ring (= 1st block), chain 3 (= corner), *3 dc in the ring, chain 3*, repeat from * to * twice, sl st in top of the first 'chain 3'

You now have a square with 4 blocks:

Pick a new color and start in any one of the corners

Chain 3, 2 dc in chain space, chain 3, 3 dc in same chain space, chain 2, *3 dc, chain 3, 3 dc in same chain space, chain 2*, repeat from * to * twice, sl st in top of the first 'chain 3'

You now have a granny square two rounds big:

To continue the square, pick a new color and start in one of the corners (I do this because I crochet over the yarn ends, and it leaves less sewing)

Repeat the 2nd round, remember to chain 3 between the corner blocks and chain 2 between the blocks on the sides.

Alternatively you can chain 1 between the blocks and chain 2 for the corners. This is a very common method (I learned the first one from my grandma), and it saves you a few stitches :)

If you are making several rounds with the same color and don't want to cut the yarn for every round, there are two ways of starting the next round:

1: chain 5 instead of 3 (this counts as the 3rd dc in the last block, plus the chain space), when you make the last block of the round, dc 2, sl st in the 3rd chain of 'chain 5'. To begin the next round, make a sl st in the chain space, and then continue the round as usual...

2: sl st along the top of the block until you reach the chain space, start the new round as usual...

The square can made as big or small as you want. Experiment with yarn and felting, the possibilities are many :)

Craft tip: How to make your toy into a rattle

Here I will show you and easy way of making your crocheted (or knitted) toy into a rattle for a baby. I have found that if you use bells, you need to put them inside some kind of container. If you put the bell(s) directly into your toy, the stuffing will muffle the sound a lot and the jingling disappears.. I have used the yellow plastic containers that you get in milk chocolate eggs (f. ex. Kinder-eggs), those are just the right size. Just put one or two bells inside and close it up :) If you want your toy to be washable, you should make sure that all openings are sealed. Use tape or glue to seal the container.

Now, if you have a container but no bells, you can just as well use dried peas or small pebbles of stone or beads. Just make sure the container is completely sealed, because if the peas get wet, the result may not be too pleasant :p

Hope this was helpful, feel free to contact me with questions :)